Korean-born artist passes along centuries-old dye tradition to Maryland art students

A Korean-born artist is passing down a centuries-old tradition to Maryland Institute College of Art (MICA) students in Baltimore.

For Asian American and Pacific Islander (AAPI) Heritage Month, we're recognizing artist Rosa Chang, who teaches a traditional indigo and natural dye class at MICA called "Mindful Colors: Natural Dyes from Korea and Beyond."

"We are creating a lot of different colors but also really navigating the relationship between the color and nature," Chang said.

The class uses plants like indigo and marigold to create hues of blue and gold. It's a meticulous process of soaking plants to get the right color.

"[The] Indigo dying process to make this blue requires another fermentation process," Chang said.

Chang said she got involved in this work after growing tired of working in the fashion industry as a pattern designer.

"Those fabrics dyed from factories feel very toxic," Chang said.

Then, someone introduced her to the natural dye practice. That's when she began learning about the significance of indigo.

"Almost all different cultures and communities have their own indigo dye practices," Chang said. "There's so many indigo plant species."

Chang said indigo is a culture connector. She adds it has a rich history and carries medicinal benefits.

"Samurais back in the day in Japan, they would use indigo to dye their garments...so that it would protect their wound after the war," Chang said. "It accelerates the healing process."

Chang said some would even drink indigo water as medicine during epidemics. These stories are part of the lesson Chang teaches throughout the semester.

"Nice to be able to kind of keep things alive"

Students in the class are working on their final project, combining all they've learned throughout the course.

"We're making a sample book," said MICA student Amber Likins. "Every time I look at this book, I'm going to remember how I did this, but I'm also going to remember just how we got here."

"I think I'm just trying to capture every hue," said Sam Beil, another MICA student.

Students said the skills learned in class will be something they will use either for their art pieces or as a side hobby.

Student Madelaine Kraushaar appreciates the sustainability piece to this work. Kraushaar finds items for art pieces from nature.

"I used an invasive species of English Ivy, and I picked it around the trees in Baltimore," Kraushaar said. "Then I used that leaf to make the green dye."

Others enjoy learning about a tradition started hundreds of years ago.

"Everything is really archaic, and I really enjoy that really historical process," Beil said.

"That's important to me, passing it down,"  said student Amber Likins.

Chang's book, "My Indigo World"

Chang said her work with indigo and natural dye even inspired her children's book, "My Indigo World." She began writing it during the COVID-19 pandemic.

"I couldn't find any evidence of Korean indigo written in English," Chang said.

So, she decided to create her own. "My Indigo World" shares the science behind indigo dye and the history of the plant, written and illustrated by Chang.

"I really wanted to create something as a gift for my community as well as honor my ancestors," Chang said.

Through her book and class, Chang is carrying on the natural dye tradition. 

Chang said that although many cultures are different, you can find similar practices that connect us all. It's a message she hopes everyone receives.

Chang is teaching a workshop for those interested in trying out the practice. It takes place on May 31. Tickets start at $125.

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